Beppu Onsen Guide: The Hell Tour, Public Baths & Hillside Hidden Springs (6 Baths)

Beppu, in Oita Prefecture, is one of Japan's largest hot spring cities. Beneath the fan of land sloping from Mt. Tsurumi and Mt. Garan toward Beppu Bay run countless veins of geothermal water. The city has more than 2,000 hot spring sources and ranks first in Japan for both the number of sources and the volume of water it discharges. Steam rises from roadside gutters as you walk, a reminder that the whole town is built on top of hot springs.

Beppu's waters are far from uniform. Eight districts—Beppu, Hamawaki, Kankaiji, Horita, Myoban, Kannawa, Shibaseki and Kamegawa—are known collectively as the "Beppu Hatto" (Eight Hot Springs of Beppu), and each has its own water quality and color. The coastal districts of Beppu and Hamawaki lean toward clear chloride springs, while up the hillside in Myoban the water turns to a cloudy, sulfur-scented acidic spring. A 20-minute drive within the same city can feel like arriving at a completely different hot spring resort.

The symbol of Beppu sightseeing is the "Hell Tour" (Jigoku Meguri 地獄めぐり). The seven Hells—including Umi Jigoku (Sea Hell), Chinoike Jigoku (Blood Pond Hell), Tatsumaki Jigoku (Tornado Hell) and Shiraike Jigoku (White Pond Hell)—let you view steam, hot mud and boiling water bursting from the ground up close, and four of them are designated National Scenic Beauty spots. Note that the Hells are for viewing only: you cannot bathe in them. In Beppu the usual rhythm is to view the Hells for sightseeing and soak at a public bathhouse or inn for your actual bath, often combining both in a single day.

Public bathhouse culture is the other half of Beppu. Takegawara Onsen, founded in the Meiji era and famous for its sand bath (suna-yu), and Kannawa Mushi-yu, a steam bath said to have been opened by the monk Ippen in the Kamakura period, are among many historic baths you can enter for a few hundred yen. Municipal baths are plentiful too, so day-trip bathing is very easy and affordable. Dropping into a local public bath between sights is very much part of the Beppu experience.

This article gives an overview of Beppu as a base for the Hell Tour and bath hopping, then introduces six baths in the Beppu area that have their own detail pages on this site. They fall into two contrasting groups: in-town public baths you can enjoy from a few hundred yen (Takegawara Onsen and Kannawa Mushi-yu), and hillside hidden springs of acidic and sulfur water (Myoban's Tsuru-no-yu, Hebin-yu and Nabeyama-no-yu, and the strongly acidic Tsukahara Onsen Kako-no-izumi)—a lineup that lets you experience the range of the Beppu Hatto through the contrast of town and mountain.


1. Takegawara Onsen 竹瓦温泉 (Beppu, Oita)

Takegawara Onsen
引用:竹瓦温泉HP
Takegawara Onsen is a public bathhouse indispensable to any account of Beppu Onsen. Founded in 1879 (Meiji 12), it came to be known as Takegawara, or bamboo tiles, because the original bathhouse had a bamboo-thatched roof. The present wooden building, erected in 1938 (Showa 13), is topped by a magnificent karahafu gabled roof that rises above the street like the very face of Beppu. Registered as a National Registered Tangible Cultural Property, the building is worth visiting not only for its baths but as a chance to appreciate modern hot spring architecture. The water is a sodium-calcium-magnesium chloride and bicarbonate spring, emerging at about 54.6 degrees Celsius with a pH of 7.6, a mildly alkaline high-temperature spring. The clear, colorless water pouring from the spout feels soft against the skin. The joy of Takegawara lies in soaking directly in high-quality source water welling up from deep underground, right in the middle of downtown Beppu. The indoor bath runs on the hot side, and locals and travelers share the tub in the unpretentious atmosphere unique to a communal bathhouse. The great attraction of Takegawara is the sunayu, or sand bath, a tradition long handed down in Beppu. After changing into a yukata and lying on the sand, an attendant known as a sunakake buries you under sand warmed by hot spring heat. Wrapped in the gentle weight of the sand, you soon break into a sweat from deep within as your circulation is stimulated, an entirely distinctive bathing experience. It lasts about fifteen minutes and is a fitting keepsake of a trip, as well as a wonderful way to warm the body to its core in winter. Admission is modest, at 300 yen for adults and 100 yen for children for the indoor bath, with the sand bath costing an additional 1,500 yen. The indoor bath is open from 6:30 in the morning until 22:30 at night, and the sand bath from 8:00 until 22:30 (last entry 21:30), closed on the third Wednesday of each month. Just a ten-minute walk from JR Beppu Station, it is close to the base of any sightseeing itinerary; with no dedicated parking, arriving by public transport is recommended. As the first step on a tour of Beppu's eight hot spring districts, this is the one bath to visit first.
Quality
Sodium - Calcium ( - Magnesium ) - Chloride - Bicarbonate Spring
Temp
---℃ to ---℃
Supply
Natural Source Flow
Heat
Not Heated
pH
pH 7.6
pH
0714
AcidicNeutralAlkaline
Use
Stay N/A/Day Trip OK
Fee
Adult 300JPY/Child 100JPY
Hours
MonTueWedThuFriSatSunHol
06:30 - 22:30◯◯◯◯◯◯◯◯
View detail page

2. Kannawa Mushi-yu 鉄輪むし湯 (Beppu, Oita)

Kannawa Mushiyu is a municipal steam bath in the Kannawa hot spring district of Beppu, an area wrapped in some of the thickest steam among Beppu's eight hot spring districts. Its history runs deep: it is said to have been founded in 1276 (Kenji 2) by Ippen, the founder of the Ji sect of Buddhism. Still beloved as a working communal bathhouse well over seven hundred years later, it carries on a bathing culture unique to Beppu, in which one bathes directly in the heat surging up from deep within the earth. The centerpiece here is not a soaking tub but the mushiyu, a chamber in which the body is steamed. Across the floor of the roughly eight-tatami stone room is spread sekisho, a medicinal herb that grows along clear streams; lying down upon it, one is enveloped by its fragrance as it is warmed by the hot spring vapor. The poet Ujo Noguchi captured this lingering scent in verse, writing that the aroma of sekisho remains on the skin on the way home from the steam bath of Bungo Kannawa. The chamber reaches about 99.5 degrees Celsius, and after only a few minutes sweat pours from the whole body. Afterward, bathers rinse off in a sodium chloride bath at around 81.7 degrees Celsius, letting the flushed body settle. The manner of bathing is distinctive as well. After paying the 510 yen admission, visitors change into a special garment before entering the stone chamber. The garment can be rented for 210 yen, or one may bring a T-shirt and shorts. Unlike a sauna or a stone-slab bath, this steam bath harnesses the natural vapor of the hot spring together with the power of the herb, warming the body gently from its core and leaving an exceptional sense of refreshment afterward. It is popular with those seeking a detoxifying experience. Opening hours are 6:30 to 20:00 (last entry 19:30), and it is closed on the fourth Thursday of each month (open if that day is a public holiday, closed the following day). It is about ten minutes by car from Beppu IC on the Oita Expressway, with parking for 16 cars, including two accessible spaces. Wander the steam-filled lanes of Kannawa and you will find much more to see nearby, from the Hells of Beppu to foot-steaming baths. For anyone who wants to feel the depth of Beppu's hot spring culture with their whole body, this is a bath well worth a visit.
Quality
Simple Hot Spring
Sodium - Chloride Spring
Heat
Not Heated
Use
Stay N/A/Day Trip OK
Fee
Adult 510JPY/Child ---JPY
Hours
MonTueWedThuFriSatSunHol
06:30 - 20:00◯◯◯◯◯◯◯◯
View detail page

3. Myoban Onsen Tsuru-no-yu 明礬温泉 鶴の湯 (Beppu, Oita)

Myouban Hot Spring Tsurunoyu
引用: たびらい HP
Temp
---℃ to 45℃
Supply
Natural Source Flow
pH
pH 3
pH
0714
AcidicNeutralAlkaline
Use
Stay N/A/Day Trip OK
Fee
Adult ---JPY/Child ---JPY
Hours
MonTueWedThuFriSatSunHol
00:00 - 24:00◯◯◯09:00-21:00◯◯◯◯
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4. Myoban Onsen Hebin-yu 明礬温泉 蛇の湯 (Beppu, Oita)

Myouban Hot Spring Hibioyu
引用: たびらい HP
Hebin-yu (Snake Bath) lies deep in a wooded ravine on the mid-slopes of Mount Tsurumi, west of central Beppu, reached by pressing still further inland from Myoban Onsen, the highest-altitude spa of the Beppu Hatto. Counted among Beppu's three great secret hot springs alongside Tsuru-no-yu and Nabeyama-no-yu, it is the most remote of the trio. It has no single proprietor; this free communal wild bath has long been maintained by local volunteers, and that quiet spirit of community care sustains it to this day. The water is a colorless, transparent simple hot spring, gentle and soft on the skin. The source is piped down from the mountainside into the uppermost rock pool and then cascades in turn to the lower pools. The top bath nearest the entrance is the hottest at around 40C, cooling progressively downstream, so bathers can choose the pool that suits them. It is a pure free-flowing spring with no heating, no added water, and no chlorination. The four rock pools, arranged as if merging with the stream itself, are often praised as the most scenic of Beppu's three secret hot springs. Surrounded by trees and set beside the murmuring river, the sense of openness is exceptional. The pools are over a meter deep and kept relatively clean for a wild bath, though parts of the bottom can be slippery with moss, so watch your footing. As it is a mixed bath, women are advised to bring bathing attire. It is about 30 minutes by car from Beppu Station, with only a few minutes on foot from the parking area. The final stretch, however, turns from paved road to rough dirt track along a narrow, winding mountain path, so careful driving is essential. Open free of charge around the clock and fitted with security cameras, it nonetheless remains a wild bath sustained by local goodwill. Please carry out your trash, bathe quietly, and treat both the natural setting and the community with respect.
Quality
Simple Hot Spring
Temp
---℃ to 40℃
Supply
Natural Source Flow
Heat
Not Heated
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5. Myoban Onsen Nabeyama-no-yu 明礬温泉 鍋山の湯 (Beppu, Oita)

Beyond Myoban Onsen, the highest-altitude spa of the Beppu Hatto, a further push into the slopes of Mount Nabeyama brings you to Nabeyama-no-yu. One of Beppu's three great secret hot springs alongside Tsuru-no-yu and Hebin-yu, it is a wild bath cradled in a bleak hillside from which sulfurous fumes rise without cease. It has no designated keeper; this free communal bath has long been maintained by the hands of local volunteers. The water is a naturally emerging sulfur spring, known as a slightly cloudy mud bath. A faint layer of clay settles at the bottom of the pools, and along with the smell of sulfur there is a mild acidic bite. The source is extremely hot at around 97C, and the bathing area is split into an upper and a lower pool. The upper pool, fed directly by the source, runs hot, while the lower pool grows gentler and easier to enter. Nothing is added or done to it: no heating, no dilution, no disinfection. The baths are simply two rustic rock pools built from arranged stones, with no changing facilities of any kind. Together they hold about five or six bathers, and as a mixed bath women may feel more at ease bringing bathing attire. Looking out over the surrounding peaks, with white steam rising from the fumaroles, the scene brims with an unreal sense of the earth itself breathing. Reached by a walk of a little over ten minutes up a mountain path from the parking area, it ranks among the harder to reach of Beppu's three secret hot springs. Though open free of charge, the near-97C source carries a real risk of burns, so stir and temper the water, check your footing, and take care. The ground turns muddy after rain, and bathing during daylight hours is advisable. Please carry out your trash and mind your manners, so that this rare wild bath can be passed on to the generations to come.
Quality
Sulfur Spring
Temp
---℃ to ---℃
Emerge
Natural Emergence
Supply
Natural Source Flow
Heat
Not Heated
View detail page

6. Tsukahara Onsen Kako-no-izumi 塚原温泉 火口乃泉 (Yufu, Oita)

Tsukahara Onsen Kako-no-Izumi
Source: Tsukahara Onsen Kako-no-Izumi website
Tsukahara Onsen Kako-no-Izumi bubbles up on the Tsukahara plateau, a quiet highland tucked behind the resort town of Yufuin in Oita Prefecture. Legend attributes its discovery to the late-Heian samurai Minamoto no Tametomo, who is said to have found the spring after watching a wounded deer soak away its injuries. The water has flowed ever since for more than 800 years, and the spring has long been cherished as a curative bath, counted today among Japan's three great medicinal hot springs. The spring's defining trait is its extreme acidity, with a pH of about 1.4. That makes it the second most acidic hot spring in Japan after Tamagawa Onsen in Akita, while its iron-ion content ranks first nationwide and its aluminium-ion content second. The water is classified as an acidic, iron-bearing (Fe II/III), aluminium sulphate spring. Emerging at around 60 degrees Celsius, it shifts from clear to a mysterious yellow-green as the dissolved iron oxidises on contact with air. Served as free-flowing source water, its potent acidity and abundant metal ions have long earned it a reputation as a healing bath, particularly for skin conditions. The bathhouse offers an indoor bath, an open-air bath, and private family baths. The open-air bath is the highlight, looking out over the gentle scenery of the Tsukahara plateau as bathers sink slowly into the yellow-green water. Within the grounds is a crater-viewing spot on the mid-slope of Mt. Garan at about 800 metres elevation, where the raw geothermal landscape and the scent of sulphur lend an otherworldly note to a visit. The baths are open 9:00-19:00 from June to September and 9:00-18:00 from October to May, with occasional winter closures due to snow. Admission is modest: 500 yen for the indoor bath, 600 yen for the open-air bath, and 2,000 yen per hour for a private family bath. The site is about 5 minutes by car from Yufugatake Smart IC and around 15 minutes from Yufuin IC on the Oita Expressway. Because the water is strongly acidic, it is best to rinse lightly with fresh water after bathing, and to remove metal accessories beforehand, as the water can tarnish them.
Quality
Acidic - Iron(II) - Sulfate Spring
Iron(II)-containing - Aluminum - Sulfate Spring
Temp
45℃ to 60℃
Emerge
Natural Emergence
Supply
Natural Source Flow
Heat
Not Heated
pH
pH 1.4
pH
0714
AcidicNeutralAlkaline
Use
Stay N/A/Day Trip OK
Fee
Adult 600JPY/Child 200JPY
Hours
MonTueWedThuFriSatSunHol
09:00 - 18:00◯◯◯◯◯◯◯◯
View detail page

Touring the Hells: Route, Tickets and Parking

The practical details for working through the seven Hells.

The route. Five of the seven—Umi Jigoku, Oniishibozu Jigoku, Kamado Jigoku, Oniyama Jigoku and Shiraike Jigoku—are clustered in the Kannawa area and can be walked in sequence. Starting at Umi Jigoku and continuing through Oniishibozu, Kamado and Oniyama before finishing Kannawa at Shiraike makes for the most natural line. The remaining two, Chinoike Jigoku (Blood Pond Hell) and Tatsumaki Jigoku (Tornado Hell), sit about 3 km away and are best saved for last, reached by bus or car. The official access guide treats the two as a single stop on the route, so they are naturally seen together.

Time needed. Allow roughly 3.5 hours to see all seven, varying with bus waits and your own pace.

Tickets. According to the Beppu Jigoku Association's official site, the combined ticket covering all seven costs 2,400 yen for adults (high school age and up) and 1,200 yen for children (elementary and junior high school) following a revision on 1 February 2025; groups of 20 or more pay 2,000 and 1,000 yen. The ticket is valid for two days—the day of purchase and the following day—so an unfinished tour can carry over to the next morning. The Hells are open 8:00 to 17:00, every day of the year.

Parking. The official site states that each Hell has free parking. Chinoike Jigoku's own site puts its free lot at 150 spaces. Capacity is not published for the others, so allow extra time in peak season.

Getting there by bus. From the west exit of JR Beppu Station, take a Kamenoi bus bound for Kannawa (routes 2, 5, 24 or 41), about 20 minutes, and get off at Umi Jigoku-mae or Kannawa—one minute on foot from there. Chinoike Jigoku and Tatsumaki Jigoku are about 40 minutes and 390 yen from Beppu Station, or about 7 minutes and 140 yen from JR Kamegawa Station, which is the closer starting point.

Fees, hours and parking details reflect information available at the time of research and are subject to revision. Please check the Beppu Jigoku Association's official site before visiting.


Frequently Asked Questions

Q. Can I visit Takegawara Onsen and Kannawa Mushi-yu on a day trip? Yes—both are municipal public baths in Beppu open for day-trip bathing. Takegawara has an indoor bath for a few hundred yen, with its famous sand bath (suna-yu) for a separate fee; Kannawa Mushi-yu is a steam bath where you wear a provided cotton robe and steam in the geothermal vapor. Hours, closing days and fees vary and can change, so check the official information or the Beppu City Tourism Association before you go. Bring your own towel and soap.

Q. Can I combine the Hell Tour with actually bathing? Yes. The Hells such as Umi Jigoku and Chinoike Jigoku are for viewing only and cannot be bathed in, but the Kannawa area where the Hells cluster is packed with public baths, "hell-steam" cooking spots and inns. A common plan is to tour the Hells in the morning and then soak at Kannawa Mushi-yu, a nearby bathhouse or your inn's bath afterward.

Q. What does "Beppu Hatto" refer to? It is the collective name for the eight hot spring districts scattered across Beppu: Beppu, Hamawaki, Kankaiji, Horita, Myoban, Kannawa, Shibaseki and Kamegawa. Their water ranges from chloride springs to acidic sulfur springs, so simply changing districts gives you a full bath-hopping experience.

Q. How much is the Hell Tour and how long does it take? The combined ticket is 2,400 yen for adults, and seeing all seven takes roughly 3.5 hours. The route, parking and bus details are in the section above.

Q. Can I bathe at Myoban's wild baths or Tsukahara Onsen on a day trip? The three free wild baths above Myoban—Tsuru-no-yu, Hebin-yu and Nabeyama-no-yu—are maintained by local volunteers and generally open at any hour. On the slopes of Mt. Garan, Tsukahara Onsen Kako-no-izumi is a staffed day-use facility. All sit up in the hills, where a car is the practical option; see the summary below for what to bring and watch out for at the wild baths.


Summary: Making the Most of Beppu's Waters Alongside Sightseeing

Beppu is a rare hot spring city where you can pair "sightseeing at the Hells" with "bathing at public baths and hidden springs" in a single day. The route, tickets and parking for the Hells are covered in the section above; what follows is about the water.

In-town public baths. The Hells are viewing spots; for bathing, the public baths are the heart of the experience. Takegawara Onsen, founded in 1879, occupies a stately building with a karahafu gabled roof registered as a National Tangible Cultural Property, and is known for the sand bath where attendants cover you in warm sand. Kannawa Mushi-yu, said to have been opened by the monk Ippen in the Kamakura period, is a steam bath where you sweat surrounded by the scent of sekisho leaves laid across the floor. Both can be enjoyed in town from a few hundred yen and make an easy entry point to day-trip bathing. Bring your own towel and soap, and note that hours and closing days differ by facility.

Myoban's three hidden wild baths. Up the hillside from Kannawa, Myoban Onsen is known for its rows of Edo-era "yunohana" (bath-flower) huts—the production technique is a designated Important Intangible Folk Cultural Property. Scattered in the mountains around it are three wild baths called the "Three Hidden Springs of Beppu": Tsuru-no-yu, a sulfur-scented yellowish bath; Hebin-yu, a scenic riverside rock bath fed by a simple spring; and Nabeyama-no-yu, a whitish mud bath ringed by raw, steaming ground. Each differs in both water and scenery. All are free baths maintained by local volunteers with only simple changing facilities, and most are mixed-gender, so women will want a bathing garment. With hot source water and uneven footing, visiting in daylight and wearing sturdy footwear is wise.

Tsukahara Onsen. On the slopes of Mt. Garan, Tsukahara Onsen Kako-no-izumi is one of Japan's most strongly acidic springs, with a pH said to be around 1.4. Rich in iron and aluminum, its water takes on a yellow-green tint on contact with the air and is sharp enough on the skin to feel a distinct sting. It is a staffed day-use facility with indoor, open-air and private baths. Paired with a look at the nearby crater, it lets you feel the raw volcanic activity of the Beppu area through both water and landscape.

Building a day. Tour the Hells and try hell-steam cooking in Kannawa in the morning, take an in-town bath at Takegawara or Kannawa Mushi-yu at midday, then head up to Myoban's wild baths or the strongly acidic Tsukahara in the afternoon. Combining viewing and bathing this way lets you experience the full range of the Beppu Hatto's water quality in a single day. The in-town public baths are easy to reach on foot or by bus, while the hillside wild baths of Myoban and Tsukahara are more practical by car. Rather than treating the Hell Tour or the bathhouses in isolation, savoring the difference between town and mountain waters is the way to appreciate Beppu deeply.

The information in this article (bathing fees, opening hours, water-quality data, ticket prices, etc.) is based on details available at the time of research and may contain errors or have since changed. Please confirm the latest information with each facility, the Hell Tour association and the Beppu City Tourism Association.

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